Tuesday, April 1, 2008

31st - Tokyo - Tsumago & Magome

It was an early start back to Tokyo Station for a 7:10am train to Nagiso. (Actually it was 3 trains in total to get to the Kiso Valley) Our first train was a Shinkansen (speed train) which Mark loved.
We then took a taxi to Tsumago. Such a gorgeous little town. It is one of a handful of towns which have been preserved from the Edo period. They are on what was the main road from Osaka to Tokyo. We had booked to stay at Matsushiroya Ryoken. It is well over 100 years old and so gorgeous. We felt very fortunate to be experiencing such a traditional inn. In this pic on the lower road, where the signs are hanging on the left, is our inn.


We got there by around 11am and dropped our bags before having a wander and a bowl of noodles. We then caught the bus over the mountain to Magome. (the next preserved town) There is a walk between Magome & Tsumago, through the forest and valley, which we planned to take. This building was the beginning of the path from Magome. The view of the valley and snow capped mountains behind was also taken from Magome.
The first 3 km were up hill and arduous for a pair of unfit middle age aussies. The final 5 km were for the most, downhill and absolutely beautiful. There were some areas where it was a bit precarious and uneven. The track for the most was granite cobble stones. The path also followed a gorgeous stream which was flowing quite rapidly due to the melting snow in the surrounding alps.
We got back to our inn by 4pm and our host prepared our bath for us to have before dinner. (It was a dinner/bed & breakfast booking) While we relaxed before our baths we shared a pot of green tea while sitting at the table. Here is Mark looking exhausted, but relaxed due to the under table heating lamp warming his legs whilst also having the knee rug to contain the heat.
As instructed by the host, I was first bath (being the lady) then Mark was to go next. There was NO communal bathing to be done. Oh my goodness the bath was absolutely delicious. We had to shower completely and rinse off before getting into the tradional cedar tub. The water was very hot and took a while until I could lower my whole body in but... after our walk my muscles were certainly appreciating the heat. The tub was a perfect size for me. When I sat up straight the water completely covered my shoulders and I could stretch my legs out competely too. Initially I planned to stay there for at least 30 mins but the heat got to me and I had to get out sooner than expected. My skin was a beautiful shade of bright pink! As per tradition we both had Yukata & Nemaki robes to wear around the 'house'.
Here are a couple of pics of us at dinner. We had 11 dishes besides the rice and dessert. This amount of food combined with a bottle of hot sake meant we were sure to sleep well. And that we did... believe it or not we were in bed (being futon on the floor) and asleep by 8:15pm. The addition of a sq foot size electric blanket at our feet (on all night at a low heat) meant we stayed warm and relaxed for the night. (It was about -1C outside by this stage) We ended up sleeping for 11hrs before getting up to another big meal for breakfast served at 8am.


Loving being on holidays already! xD








3 comments:

Anonymous said...

mum you would get so angry at mitchell and i if we slept that long on a holiday! i guess you deserved it after the big walk. the house and food looks great... love the outfits and rug to keep in the heat, haha!

Anonymous said...

Yes ... must agree with Ashleigh the Nana rug(with heating) was a nice touch. Might be something you could introduce into the Melb household. this visit sounds like a lovely experience. M-M

Anonymous said...

What great atmosphere Tsumago. If you only knew the pleasure I am getting out of your sightings and learnings...make me feel great too Much love.