Early start on the next part of our travels..getting into a taxi at 5.00am to catch the 6.00am train to Zagreb which was about a 6 hour trip. Had my first experience of a border crossing, Dominique is an old hand at these now, train was stopped at Gyelenes (?) in CROATIA and we were paid a visit by the police, customs, immirgration checking passports, looking where we had travelled to before, opening our suitcases, etc.. and then the train conductor to check our tickets...they were all packing BIG guns to make me fell totally aware they meant business... only the train conductor was gun free although he looked like he should have had one. I remained very focused throughout these five minutes or so and I can honestly say they had my fullest attention!!!!!
We got off the train in Yagreb and from there were taking the bus to Split. Although we were only passing through Zagreb our first impressions were good and we were disappointed we were not staying in this city and explore it. Our bus to Split left in only an hour which was about another 5 hours away. So no free time to check out Zagreb. Eager as ever I enjoyed the bus trip.
Here are a couple of pics to show you a little of the Croatian countryside. One taken from the bus as we were motoring along. The other Dominique took from a roadside cafe. 
The country side was mountainous and rocky. Some mountains snow capped with valleys green and lush with plantings and lots of picture postcard little towns lined with man made stone walls which separeted the various fields.
As we arrived in Split we were at the top of the mountain range and looked down into the city below passing ancient aquaducts along the way and stopping at the harbour area which is a very busy area for boating, trains and buses all converging in the one area. On our arrival it was arranged that the owner of our apartment was going to meet us and take us to were we were staying..and yes he was there holding his DOMINIK sign...he was a great guy and as it has turned out a wonderful host who was doing everything he could to make our stay pleasant. Recommending things to do, places to eat that the locals go to, etc.
One restaurant he recommended we went to first night...and we would never have found it on our own...even with directions it was almost lost to us...see pic below of the path from the back of a small square (and up some stairs and around a corner) we had to take ... but worth it wine and food great...how unusual for us!!!!!!
It was great atmosphere and otherwise only locals there as the general tourist would not see it whithout being told it was there.
Split has a very old town walled area...approximately 1700 years old and I found the age of things very hard to comprehend with one church so old that the heavy marble engraving had all but been worn out by the foot traffic over its life. The museum inside the church had items that were quite extradorinary like hymn books created in the 800-900,s made on a very fine leather paper with beautiful penmanship and gold leaf paintings on the pages, statues of saints which contained a small part of them. I think they called them relics.

The old town area was covered in old Roman type architecture which again the few pics here dont do it justice but none the less we walked and walked for hours and I think at one stage my mouth was wide open in amazement and I was shaking my head in disbelief and as I turned around I am sure the other tourists thought I must have been a bit simple. 
This one is part of the main water front promenade.
We decided that dinner tonight was going to be the other restaurant that our host had recommended and as it was raining heavly I went up to his apartment above ours to ask his help in arranging for a taxi to take us...well he wouldnt hear of a taxi...he drove us to the restaurant and luckly he had because if we had walked as originally planned ...we would never have found it...never. Even if the taxi dropped us at the address we would not have found it...
What a night we had, great atmosphere, band, tables of people everywhere some singing.. food was tops..to mention the black and white mussels in white wine...sorry to say Richard and Mitchell..D and I reckon they are the best we have ever had. I would rub it in with a photo we took but it is a bit too dark. Wine fab and have now found out the the best white wines are produced in the top of Croatia and the red ones from the south of the country...I will test this out and report another time I am sure. The waiter was very helpful and as they did not have the lamb I ordered (it was to be oredered ahead for at least 4 people) he suggested I had the lamb cutlets. Picturing a couple of the neat little chops we get at home, I agreed.
All was going very well until my meal arrived...having ordered lamb chops... my side of lamb on a plate arrived...well D and I laughed and laughed at the size of this meal. Well after one bite there was no way any of it was going back to the kitchen it was too good...I can report all was eaten between us...PS not quite a side of lamb on a plate but close!!!!!
The rain stopped long enough for us to walk back to our apartment after dinner. We needed the stroll to move the food a bit!
During the night the rain really set in and our next morning was meet with heavy rain. So this forced us to slow down a bit and catch up with washing and reading... but as soon as it cleared we were out the door to enjoy our last afternoon in Split and we took the earlier advise and made our way up to the lookout area...the views from up here were stunning and we took it very easy and at one stage I stood watching as layers of clothing were removed by D (she remain decent though...) ...we left our apartment wearing our thermals...purely precautionary...it was quite cool and we didnt want to get cold.... by the time we got home the thermals were gone. This area of Split turned out to be the most beautiful scenery to be had and we enjoyed it too.
Here is a photo from the lookout and one of me (overlooking the harbour) at a cafe we stopped at for a coffee.

The next morning was unfortunately another very early start. We had to be at the harbour for our ferry to Dubrovnik by 6am. Luckily it wasnt raining which we were worried about.
Here is a photo of our ship the Marco Polo.
The weather was very threatening though and this ship coming towards us in the half light was very surreal looking.
We stopped at a couple of Islands on our way to Dubrovnik. Hvar and Kornicula (?). They are both wine growing islands and the whole coast was as beautiful as the Whitsunday area and would really be great to do another sailing trip, this time along the Croatian coast.
This pic is Kornicula.
We got off the train in Yagreb and from there were taking the bus to Split. Although we were only passing through Zagreb our first impressions were good and we were disappointed we were not staying in this city and explore it. Our bus to Split left in only an hour which was about another 5 hours away. So no free time to check out Zagreb. Eager as ever I enjoyed the bus trip.
The country side was mountainous and rocky. Some mountains snow capped with valleys green and lush with plantings and lots of picture postcard little towns lined with man made stone walls which separeted the various fields.
As we arrived in Split we were at the top of the mountain range and looked down into the city below passing ancient aquaducts along the way and stopping at the harbour area which is a very busy area for boating, trains and buses all converging in the one area. On our arrival it was arranged that the owner of our apartment was going to meet us and take us to were we were staying..and yes he was there holding his DOMINIK sign...he was a great guy and as it has turned out a wonderful host who was doing everything he could to make our stay pleasant. Recommending things to do, places to eat that the locals go to, etc.
One restaurant he recommended we went to first night...and we would never have found it on our own...even with directions it was almost lost to us...see pic below of the path from the back of a small square (and up some stairs and around a corner) we had to take ... but worth it wine and food great...how unusual for us!!!!!!
Split has a very old town walled area...approximately 1700 years old and I found the age of things very hard to comprehend with one church so old that the heavy marble engraving had all but been worn out by the foot traffic over its life. The museum inside the church had items that were quite extradorinary like hymn books created in the 800-900,s made on a very fine leather paper with beautiful penmanship and gold leaf paintings on the pages, statues of saints which contained a small part of them. I think they called them relics.
This one is part of the main water front promenade.
We decided that dinner tonight was going to be the other restaurant that our host had recommended and as it was raining heavly I went up to his apartment above ours to ask his help in arranging for a taxi to take us...well he wouldnt hear of a taxi...he drove us to the restaurant and luckly he had because if we had walked as originally planned ...we would never have found it...never. Even if the taxi dropped us at the address we would not have found it...
What a night we had, great atmosphere, band, tables of people everywhere some singing.. food was tops..to mention the black and white mussels in white wine...sorry to say Richard and Mitchell..D and I reckon they are the best we have ever had. I would rub it in with a photo we took but it is a bit too dark. Wine fab and have now found out the the best white wines are produced in the top of Croatia and the red ones from the south of the country...I will test this out and report another time I am sure. The waiter was very helpful and as they did not have the lamb I ordered (it was to be oredered ahead for at least 4 people) he suggested I had the lamb cutlets. Picturing a couple of the neat little chops we get at home, I agreed.
All was going very well until my meal arrived...having ordered lamb chops... my side of lamb on a plate arrived...well D and I laughed and laughed at the size of this meal. Well after one bite there was no way any of it was going back to the kitchen it was too good...I can report all was eaten between us...PS not quite a side of lamb on a plate but close!!!!!
The rain stopped long enough for us to walk back to our apartment after dinner. We needed the stroll to move the food a bit!
During the night the rain really set in and our next morning was meet with heavy rain. So this forced us to slow down a bit and catch up with washing and reading... but as soon as it cleared we were out the door to enjoy our last afternoon in Split and we took the earlier advise and made our way up to the lookout area...the views from up here were stunning and we took it very easy and at one stage I stood watching as layers of clothing were removed by D (she remain decent though...) ...we left our apartment wearing our thermals...purely precautionary...it was quite cool and we didnt want to get cold.... by the time we got home the thermals were gone. This area of Split turned out to be the most beautiful scenery to be had and we enjoyed it too.
Here is a photo from the lookout and one of me (overlooking the harbour) at a cafe we stopped at for a coffee.
The next morning was unfortunately another very early start. We had to be at the harbour for our ferry to Dubrovnik by 6am. Luckily it wasnt raining which we were worried about.
We stopped at a couple of Islands on our way to Dubrovnik. Hvar and Kornicula (?). They are both wine growing islands and the whole coast was as beautiful as the Whitsunday area and would really be great to do another sailing trip, this time along the Croatian coast.
Well thats about for now.
Time to go eat (yes, again) then explore Dubrovnik.
Bye for now,
Mark
5 comments:
You are now in one of my favourite places, Dubrovnik. Really looking forward to your next blog. The countryside is so pretty,you wonder why they fight over it so much. You are certainly getting the local touches as you go, that's what the trip ia all about.
Keep on sampling the local fare, hiccup.....how are the kilo's going !!!!
Tina & I have only 4 days to go yahoo.....
Allour love.
Hope you have had a good time on Dubrovnik....don't forget to go down to the harbour....we sat in the sun there drinking wine, eating bread & HUGE slices of mortadella....YUMMMM
Travel safe
love to both
Such a Mark expression, 'I remained very focused'but, they would have had my fullest attention too..packing big guns! For aname,like Split,it doesn't do it justice. It is beautiful,so different to what you have seen so far eh ? AND hospitable too, not to mention the food and vino.Not too sure about the black clouds or the boat.checked Split on google earth and noted Split was on a narrow strip og land with the range of 'mountains'running the same way as the coast. Hard to imagine the leather papers ....so old. Take care much love
on a narrow stretch of land
All sounds pretty good there. Hope you get some fine weather in Dubrovnik...might encourage you to stop and enjoy some local fare and vino!!! I loved the road/paths in the walled city, couldn't believe how smooth it was from years of wear, and the drinking fountains...looking forward to those snaps. Love M-M
nice blogging dad! split looks great, i like the photo you took from the lookout, with water in the front and mountains in the back. looks great! maybe u can take mitchell and i there on our next trip?? hint hint, nudge nudge...
Xxx
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