Doubtful Sound

Our overnight cruise to Doubtful Sound went like this:

- Cruise across Lake Manapouri to west arm (this included approx 70 ppl)

- Bus across Wilmott Pass to Deep Cove (end of Doubtful Sound)

- Cruise Doubtful Sound (from 12 noon until 9:30 the following morning)

There were just 5 passengers on our boat, an English couple and a woman from the Netherlands who were lots of fun. We also had a crew of 2. There was a large boat that had 55 on it and another that had around 8. We always prefer a more intimate experience.

During our time on the boat we glimpsed the other boats a couple of times but mostly it felt like we were the only ones there. There are also a couple of boats that take day trippers. They get about 3 hrs on the sound.

It is utterly incredible to be in such an environment, which of course the photos can’t do justice.

We made our way down the sound stopping a couple of times to look at waterfalls and to pull up the crayfish pots to get our dinner.

The crays were plentiful for sure! Mark was more than happy to lend a hand, ensuring he earned the biggest for dinner.

The opening of the sound from the Tasman Sea was quite rocky and passage through was limited. We stopped to check out some seals, including some very new pups before heading out to sea. It was amazing to realise just where we were in the world. We certainly felt a million miles away.

Once out at sea we did some drift fishing. After a couple of bites for the captain he said to pull up the lines and we would move to another spot.

I was winding mine up and was being told to go faster. I said it was not easy and possibly I was just weak wristed. The female crew member said “here let me do it” (in her preferred, annoyed school teacher tone). Then she said, “maybe you have something on it”. And there before I knew it, I had caught my first fish ever!!! Though I’m not sure it counts when I didn’t do ALL the winding in. In the end we caught enough between us for dinner and for more crayfish bait, which is what mine became.

After fishing it was more cruising and dolphin spotting. It was so amazing with a group of about 20 dolphins all surrounding and protecting a tiny new one!

Finally we moored in a protected cove for the night. This is the only building in the sound and is a remnant of old fishing days. Being a UNESCO site, it is very protected.

From here we went kayaking while the crew prepared our dinner. I had been VERY concerned leading up to this trip regarding sharks in the sound as it was open to the sea. I had my concerns alleviated when told they don’t come in as there is so much fresh water coming from the lakes, they don’t like it in there. (I only realised later – if the dolphins seemed quite happy, why wouldn’t sharks!!!!) Anyway I survived and LOVED it.

Now being alone, at water level in such awe inspiring place is just surreal. In the cove next to ours was a 3 drop waterfall coming down the mountain. There were mussels on alot of the rocks and the trees were different for sure.
In all we loved this experience and would recommend it to anyone. Being with a small group was best for sure. Others on the big boat said they had lamb and beef buffet for dinner! Eww where’s the seafood?!