Bathroom Challenges

Most standed toilets in Japan offer a warmed seat and some kind of bidet facility. That is unless it is a very old squat style which are NO fun.
So we thought it time to include a toileting update from Japan. I am sure you have seen photos of Japanese toilets before but we are constantly offered new options. Aside from the normal front and back washing options there is also the option to play a flushing sound when you first enter so that others may not need to hear any noises coming from your cubicle.
This one did not have the sounds available but it did provide a warm air dryer for after washing.

Ah the choices we have!!!!

One other little bathroom story was when I used a public facility yesterday. I entered a cubicle that the door swung out. I had it all under control by grabbing the handle to firmly close the door as I stepped back into the cubicle. Alas the toilet pan was not far behind me and the back of my foot hit it stopping me from going back as far as I originally expected. However, I still managed to keep the door moving and pulled it firmly closed. I was more than a little shocked when the coat hook on the back of the door stopped a mere 5mm from the middle of my forehead. That could have been a nasty injury there!! Also when using this toilet in such a confined space my feet were half poking out under the door. What a laugh!

More Kyoto

We had 4 nights in Kyoto and it was a good thing we had to leave when we did as we just could not seem to stop shopping. The first morning we headed off to the Post Office to send ourselves some things back. We posted a parcel of 3.2KG but managed to gain half that back in purchases by the time we got back to the hotel. The only good thing for our wallet is that the clothes just do not fit. Even if they fitted, the long sleeves, would be too short.

However, there were so many great shops (even in all the cute little laneways) that we just had to make outselves not go into them after a while.

On our last day there we did the Philosophers Walk. It was a bit busy as it was a Saturday but not too bad at all. There were many temples we could visit along the 1.5km canal side walk but we only ended up going into the last one. It was Nanzenji and had a reknowned moss garden besides a large complex of amazing buildings.

(There are actually many temple complexes in Kyoto and often you only have to walk 100m from one to the next.)

This and the first shot show a little of some of the many mosses they are growing here. There are also workers squatting over the moss gentle brushing it to remove any leaves or alike.


There was a tea shop in the garden serving tea and sweet refreshments. Besides our green tea we were given hot green tea broth which was little sharp and grassy tasting but went very well with the over sweet `cakes` which were like thin pikelets made in a small jaffle type cooker with red bean paste inside. We didnt like them last time we were here but with the green tea broth they were edible.

The only seating was about 6 benches like the one I am sitting on. It was very relaxed with most benches being used by families. We found this a lovely relaxing place and hung out there for quite a while.

This was the gate for the messengers to come and go through. Though it hasnt come out well there was a very interesting mound of white gravel with a pattern raked into it. Throughout the gardens there were workers pruning and trimming the trees ready for the crowds that would come to see the autumn leaves which unfortunately we are a bit early for here.

There was a kindergarten over the side fence of the complex. Amazingly kitted out with equipment but what stood out to the daughter of a `bussy family` was the bus with the doll with wings permanently attached to the front. There were several dedicated buses like this to carry their little angels!

Hope all are well.
xD&M

Kyoto - random pics and comments

Fushimi Inari - Taisha Shrine - Over 1000 Tori gates leading up to a buddhist cemetry
Chion-In Temple Gardens - very beautiful
Chion-In Temple Gardens - Mark taking stone path across lake
Chion-In Temple - one of many buildings in the grounds here
Mark very envious of the Aston Martin DB9 being refueled at a local Shell servo. Note the overhead bowsers! The personalised service includes attendant fuels the car, cleans ALL windows, runs to the console to process the payment, Escort you to road entry and confirm when its clear to go, then they bow as you leave. Amazing!!!!
Kodaji Temple - 1 of 2 Gardens there

These are 2 of a group of 3 geisha/ meiko we came across. They were taking photos of each other!
Another pair of young geisha/ meiko we came across. they were very sweet and very happy to have us take their photo
Mark was taking a photo of a group of school girls with the geisha. I took this pic of the back of them as I find it amazing how they do their hair and the white makeup at the back。

Jishu Shrine。A massive site with many buildings and temples set into the hill overlooking Kyoto.

　Lanterns on a small temple at Yasaka Shrine

　One of many many small streets in this city. They are endless and so lovely this city. They are endless and so lovely to stroll down. Some of the buildings here are still mostly original being over 1,000 yrs old.

Naoshima, Seto Inland Sea

Visiting this island and the surrounding museums and art galleries was divine. We managed most of 2 days on the small island and could have had longer.

We indulged ourselves on this occasion and stayed at the Bennesse House museum. There is a huge amount of land that was bought by the Bennesse Corporation. It covers 2 x headlands and 2 x beaches. All with amazing views over the sea. Over the past 15 yrs they have worked with the leading architect Tadao Ando to create the most amazing buildings.

On one headland is the Museum and 10 room hotel. (this is where we stayed). Following that they built the Chu-chi Museum. The architect wanted restrained design. To achieve this all the buildings are underground therefore no grand design to be seen from outside. The inside was all concrete, white or galvanised steel. The staff were also dressed in all white and with them all being the same colouring (japanese) and the lighting being mostly quite low it made it a very surreal experience. (like some James Bond movie where they would be cloning humans or alike)

To reach this museum you leave from the ticket office and have to stroll through the `Monet garden`. As soon as we saw it we knew what it was. Not cheesy and just to the side of the road. One wing of this museum was purpose built to hold the 5 Monet paintings they own. This place is best described over a drink but to give you an idea of another room, it was designed by James Turrell. He is an expert in experiential lighting art. We just let ourselves go with it and it was amazing. You may get an idea here www.chichu.jp

In the last 4 years or so they have opened another area with further hotel rooms, gallery, art installations and restaurant. We had lunch here on the first day and while sitting in the cafe with a view of the water the sea bass started jumping our of the water. It was fun to see and no big deal to them. It was like when whales breach and land on their side but these little fish were only about 15" long.

Later in the day we caught the complimentary bus for guests and went to see the Art House Project. It was in another part of the island and within a little village. Where they have had some old derelict houses they have engaged artists to create art with them. Very great and very weird at the same time. There was also another amazing (very dark) light art experience which is hard to describe here.

While we were here we heard from a couple of people that they were expecting a BIG storm and that the ferries off the island would not run in the evening. As it was nearing 3pm we thought it time to hightail it back to collect our luggage and get off the island.

So all in all, Naoshima, so beautiful in art, architecture and scenery. Absolutely a must see for anyone who comes to Japan and is interested in art.

PS - we ate & breakfast in the Japanese restaurant for dinner and it was also an artistic and culinary delight. Way too much food. We lost count after 14 courses!!! With every dish we were in awe of how they presented it and of the dishes they used. Sublime!!

PPS - All these pics are in and around the Museum where we stayed. We were not allowed to take photos in the Chichu Museum nor of the Art house Project.

Very refreshing!

Ok.. so very possibly I blabbed on last night and maybe it was the choc martini talking. Also its a luxury to have a computer in the room so we took advantage of it as I am this morning before we hand it back.

I must say its very refreshing to travel in country where there is no-one begging or hassling us to buy anything. We can walk the streets at night without feeling even slightly anxious.

Yes it is as clean as it looks. Yes John, you would love it!

Evening in Himeji

After blogging happily with our beer, in our room, on a rented laptop (only $8 for the night) we scrubbed up and headed out for the evening.

Just a block away after passing several options we chose a quaint little restaurant with a crab on the menu board and outside awning as Mark felt like crab for dinner.

I think we were the first westerners to set foot in the place in a very long time, if ever. The staff fell silent when we entered and then were immediately excited to try and work out where to sit us. We could then see them having alittle `chat` obviously to work out who had the best English to serve us. A very sweet young woman came over with the menu`s and said they were only in Japanese. However, she could offer us one with English but then went on to explain it was a bit old. We then got the gist that not all would be available on this menu. We were fine with this and assured her we were happy to look over the menu.

Mark scoured the menu eagerly excited to work out which of the crab meals he would eat. Seaching as much as possible alas there were NO crab meals on the menu. None the less we forged ahead and to our dismay the first couple of choices were not available. We eventually chose some tempura prawns as an entree and then the waitress came over with a promo leaflet asking us which of the free offerings we would like. One was sashimi and the other an assortment of raw chicken parts. As we had experienced this previously we quickly and unitedly chose the fish. It was the wise choice as it also came with a nice salad.

We then came to ordering our main meal. We asked if they had any vegetable dishes as we fancied some steamed greens. We asked what they had in HOT veges to offer and she said only vegetables on stick. We ordered this as the idea of vege kebab sounded tastly. We also ordered grilled mackeral.

We presumed we would get a mackeral fillet or steak but we actually got a whole fish at least 12" long that had been split in half along the spine and butterflied before being grilled/ smoked and was absolutely delicious though a bit tricky to eat and bone with only chopsticks. Then to go with this along came our vegetables on stick. To our dismay it was not a hot vege kebab but actually a glass filled with cold cucumber and carrot sticks about 6" standing up in it. Along side came a dish of mayonnaise. We did feel for a moment we were in some kind of retro party but in the end they were fresh and nice to have.

We got chatting with this lovely waitress and found out she was coming to Australia to study next Feb. She was so excited and I ended up giving her my business card should she come to Melbourne.

From there we headed a few blocks away in search of the cocktail bar, Atsuco`s father recommended. There we were strolling along with the address he gave us in hand. The note was in English and Japanese to cover all bases. We found a building with the name he gave us but weren`t sure. AS we stood there trying to work out if we were in the right place a family came out of a door and we asked them to read the note and let us know if this was where we should be.

They pointed us to a door and in we went. It was a small bar, lit as intimately as a 7-11, with an elderly Geisha sitting looking bored and 3 staff shocked to see us enter. There were NO patrons in there. I handed them the note to clarify it was the right place and they said NO. They kindly rang the number on our note and then one of the waitresses walked us to the bar we were looking for. How nice is that!!

The bar was intimate and obviously a cocktail bar. Only one staff eager to serve us as his regular client Sukamoto had sent us along. Mark ordered Sake which sent him in a spin. He grabbed some cash and took off out the door. About 5 mins later he returned with a bottle of Sake for Mark. I felt bad for him and ordered a choc martini. VERY delicious. He gave us a little side dish of artistically presented fruit and a little square of dark choc. We enjoyed an hour or so of chat, looking at his holiday snaps of Scotland and discussing the nice music he had.

We ended up leaving with his 2x CD`s (burnt off the original he had at home) of the artist playing.

Himeji

We came back through Osaka today to Himeji. I must say here what alot of help we have been offered by locals just seeing us on our way. We dont even have to look lost to be offered assistance. Firstly at the train station where we had to make changes from train to subway to train. A young woman asked if she could help with anything as we were going down the escalator. She said she had studied in Adelaide a couple of years back and knew what it was like to be a tourist in a foreign country. I got her to help us buy the subway tickets as there is no English on the board which explains how much you need to pay. She then sat with us on the train and chatted happily for 10 mins till she got off.

Then after we got off the train in Himeji, another woman offered to help. We showed her the map of where we were trying to get to and within 3 secs she pointed it out down the road and we were all on our individual ways.

Mark was fascinated to see these guys trimming the trees in the street outside our hotel. You can see the trees down the street have been trimmed but not the closest one.
The men just climbed on ladders into the trees and clambered around around the branches cutting merrily away.
Mainly we came to Himeji as we wanted to see Himeji Castle but what a fun city it seems. We were told we would only need half a day to visit the castle and it was enough.

Quite an imposing building on the only hill in the city centre. There are other hills in the surrounding area though.



In this photo if you look closely you can see slots under the windows and on the corners, pointing towards the ground. Again Mark was fascinated to learn these were for either throwing stones at or pouring boiling oil or water on any invaders. Talk about harsh treatment!

One of the many trees in the grounds surrounding the castle. We did not explore too far from the main castle as our feet were KILLING us. We limped back to relax with an Asahi beer and seaweed wrapped rice crackers.

Our plans tonight are to go out and find some dinner and then all being well we are going to try a `cocktail bar` that was recommended by Atsuco`s father. He even rang the bar the other night when we had dinner with them to let the bar owner know we would be visiting. It could be an interesting evening!!!!!

Mt Koya (Koya-san)

A 1.5hr train trip took us through some Gokurakubashi. From this station there was a 5min (very very steep)cable car ride to the top of the mountain. We then had to get a bus for 20min to our `accommodation`.



A little background on Mt Koya. It is a World Heritage listed centre for buddhist studies and practice. It has 53 historical temples that you can stay in. We stayed in Shinjoshin-in. We did not stay in the main building though as I had booked us the Hanare. This was a free standing house which I decided to book to give us some room for a change.

I figured this was somewhere we would want to just relax and `be`. As we had to remove our shoes everytime we went indoors, they provided shoes that were easy to slip in & out of, to save the trouble of dealing with our own shoes all the time. Here is Mark heading off to dinner!!!!Yes they are the traditional shoes made of timber and we managed surprisingly well wearing them.

It was just perfect. It also included dinner & b`fast. Vegetarian only available and so varied and delicious that it had me believing I could live without meat (for a day anyway).

This is the dining room. As we were the guests of the Hanare we had top position next to a small stage with a hand painted back screen etc. This pic was taken looking down the room showing the divider screens between each couple of guests. It was a lovely experience with quiet chater gong on between guests and their neighbours.



Staying at one of the temples it is greatly preferred that guests join the monks in their morning service. We happily went along as we wanted to experience it. The ceremonial room where this service was held was so beautiful. Lots of beautiful fabric, black and gold urns and gold leaf flowers. It possibly sounds tacky but it was far from it. The rhythmic chanting was melodious and hypnotic. The brass singing bowl (`bell`) was amazing how long it reverberated for. Mark was fascinated. Most of the 20 guests staying there chose to sit on the `seats for western guests` but Mark & I chose to sit on the floor on cusions. It went for just over 30 mins which was enough for our legs to get close to pins and needles.

Another `place to see` which was a fascination to both of us was the cemetry. It was next door to ur temple and held over 200,000 graves/ monuments going back to around 800AD. How to explain it is the question. It went for 2 km set amongst towering cedar and pine trees. There were all types of small and large headstones. Some were to locals and also military folk. Some had their own little fences, seats, entry gates and letter boxes.

The paths through were also lit at night via standing granite lanterns and some overhead lighting to help see the way. We walked through both day and night. Each a different experience. The night time being a bit scary as we seemed to be the only people there.

All in all it was a great experience. It meant we had to go the 1.5hrs in and out and for us was well worth the effort. As soon as we arrived we could feel ourselves relaxing and unwinding after the bustle of Osaka.

We hope all are well and miss everyone. xD&M

Osaka - Oh what a great arvo/ evening we had!

Remember it is dreadfully humid here and add the stress of the exciting but perilous journey above Osaka, a beer was in order. We found a great restaurant under the ground level pedestrian walkway. It was at the same level as a fantastic tropical garden and we enjoyed a table at the window, and after we had been there only 10 mins a massive amount of water came shooting from pillars above landing on the rocks below. It was like being under a waterfall and spectacular. If you look carefully you can see people sitting at the window below the pool in this pic.



After our busy morning we took a break back at the hotel for 30 mins, before heading out meet Atsuco at 4pm in Dontombori. Atsuco is a local Osaka girl who we met while she was homestaying with Michelle (my cousin) in Melbourne. What a treat it was to have a local show us around the area. We were thrilled that she may offer us a couple of hours of her time to meet us. Once we strolled for an hour or so she asked if we would like to get the train out to where she lives with her family and share a meal with them at their fav local restaurant. Sure, we said, without hesitation. how often do you get a lovely offer like that when you are travelling?

We saw many great areas of the Dontombori/ Namba area and thought it best described by the next 2 photos. One is of Sennichimae Doguyasuji Shopping Street. (It is one of a couple of very long covered pedestrain streets here. One is actually 2.6 km long)

Our favourites though were the quieter laneways. Literally every 50m or so was a lane like this one that was quiet and so beautiful. Spic and span clean with endless little bars, cafes etc.

Around 7pm we headed to the train to Senri-Chuo. It was about 30 min trip and then at the other end we were met by Atsuco`s father who drove us to the little restaurant. They were keen to say it wasn`t a restaurant but just a house a man and his mother provide meals in. Her family were so lovely and inviting. Also very keen to make sure we were comfortable (sitting on the floor on small cushions), and well fed. All was fine.

We had many courses over 3 hrs of chatting, laughing and drinking beer, sake and local whiskey. We only had a little whiskey, as it was a bit strong for us. We were also shown photos by the owner taken when they went to this same restaurant with Michelle only 2 months ago when she was staying with them. We noticed other people on the photo too and they explained how the people on the next table (and there are only 2 tables in the restaurant) joined them on that night so also got in the photo with Michelle.

Low and behold, only 15 mins later the same people arrived and ate at the table next to us. They initially thought I was Michelle returning with my husband. Once they explained that I was her cousin and that Atsuco knew me from Melbourne they were delighted to be meeting even more Australians. We had such a great night, of banter, and fun, with Mark making 2 x new `besties` of the owner of the restaurant and the man at the next table. Our 2 x tables became one with the guy next to us saying how frustrated he was as he really wanted to have a long chat with Mark but had no English. This is a photo taken, which i have no doubt you Michelle will recognise, of our group.

They also had their son with them and after possibly too many sake`s the whole restaurant was practising their English by singing `heads shoulders knees and toes etc...` They were thrilled to know it is a little song we sing as well and not just a way the kids learn English here.

to give you an idea of the menu, some of the unusual things we had were, raw horse, cooked horse heart, grilled Mana-ray fin, raw chicken breast/ liver/ throat/ heart. Mark in particualr enjoyed the Mana-ray fin. It was crispy and a little salty and great with beer as it was like slighty fishy crisps.

On leaving the owner of the restaurant was keen to hand Mark a gift. So he was bestowed with a plastic bag with 2 x raw Mana-ray fins and instructions on how to cook them. At present they are in our bar fridge in the room with no way of finding a grill to cook them. Scch a lovely gesture!

Atsuco`s Mum ended up driving us back to our hotel as it was now close to midnight.

We fell into bed and chatted on what a great day we had for our first full day in Japan.

Osaka - What a great morning we had!

First up we thought it worth putting up this photo of the Great Barrier Reef from 40,000ft. It looked awesome!

After a `not so great sleep` on very hard beds, we heaed out to explore Osaka with a fin. We decided to go underground and after a quick b`fast of toasted ham, tomato, lettuce sandwich and a cold boiled egg, we strolled through a major shopping arcade. Not being there to shop we just glanced left and right at the windows. However, there was just one shop that made us step in. 3 x super fine merino wool jumpers for mark and 2 x thermal t-shirts for me, we left!!!!! The prices were at the most, half what we pay at home.

From there we were keen to visit the `Floating Gardens`. It is a couple of buildings joined by a circular platform of around 4 stories high. On top of this platform is an open air observation deck. This photo is taken from the ground looking up. We thought it was a great way to get a feel of how big Osaka was and of the general terrain. So off we went. After a couple of escalators to the 3rd floor we were directed to an elevator.

Fortunately we were the only ones in the elevator as once it passed about 10 floors the walls disappeared and it became glass all around. We both said `holy cr%&` and went to grab the rail behind us. Mark clutched on for dear life and I grappled around behind me to no avail. There was no rail on my side and the end result is that i am sure I managed to etch `HELP` in the glass with my fingernails. It was freakin` scary Normally I can brace myself for such things but as we weren`t expecting it we both got quite a shock and did the last half of the 39 floors with our eyes closed and breaking into an instant sweat. It was a VERY long ride!

If that wasn`t enough, once we got off and calmed ourselves by laughing hysterically, we went around the corner to find the next little `fun` installment was a glass escalator that would take us across the void between the buildings and up about 4-5 stories. More hysterical laughter and lots of `you`ve got to be kidding` we braved it and stepped on the journey to the unknown.

This a a photo I took of Mark across the expanse. (yes thats him with his hands holding onto the glass) You can see the top of the escalator below him.

A photo taken east towards where we were staying. In the front right of this pic is the Osaka JR train station we arrived into and then you can see a ferris wheel. we are staying not far from there. FYI - there are about 4 ferris wheels we have seen here so far.